
It is not a pleasant place… It is only magnificent…
Henry James 1881
James went on to say much more about the city but I think these ten words capture the essence of London possibly better than anyone else, certainly London as he knew it was at the height of its powers in the late Victorian age. This is the final volume in my August 2026 reading theme of which the first three books have been part of a logical set published by the Folio Society, unfortunately they only produced three books in the series but after bouncing around the UK for the rest of the month at the end I’m going to concentrate on this selection of writings and pictures focused on the capital, London, also using a Folio Society publication.
This book follows a similar structure to the other three with various paintings illustrating the city as the centuries pass with contemporary texts selected by Roger Hudson to complement them. The first chapter deals with Roman times until the reign of Richard III (died 1485) which is a massive 1540 years, but as Hudson explains there is little in the way of writings about London during that period and the only substantive passages are both from the reign of Henry II (1167-1189). These are by William Fitz-Stephen, a Londoner, and Richard of Devizes who despite his name was a monk in St Swithen’s at Winchester which previously had been the capital, and still hoped to be again, so had no love for London. The contrast between their two passages is fascinating.

The next chapter covers the Tudor period (1485-1603), which is when London sealed its dominance as the capital and a poem written by the then ambassador from Scotland in 1501, William Dunbar, flatters the city.
London, thou art of towns A per se,
Sovereign of cities, seemliest in sight,
Of high renown, riches and royalty;
Of lords, barons and many a goodly knight,
Of most delectable lusty ladies bright;
Of famous prelates in habits clerical,
Of merchants full of substance and might,
London, thou art the flower of cities all.Hudson quotes the whole poem but I think the first verse gives an idea of how it goes and I was also thrown initially by the strangeness of there being an ambassador from Scotland, but of course back then it was a separate kingdom.
The book continues in chronological order through the Stuarts and of course the revolution and the impact the Protectorate had on the capital with the march of The New Model Army in 1648 into the city to demand back pay, London alone owed £100,000 around £15 million in today’s money. I didn’t know anything about this aspect of the revolution before reading this book, for more about this period of English history see another Folio Society book ‘The Trial of Charles I‘ which I reviewed in 2020.

After the restoration of the monarchy in 1660 the city saw a flowering of culture and the great fire in 1666 gave an opportunity for a major redesign of the cluttered streets. This period is largely covered by extracts from the diaries of John Evelyn and of course Samuel Pepys, I really must read his diaries again, its been over twenty five years since I last did so and the sections quoted reminded me of how very readable he is. The book also includes a double page spread of Wenceslas Hollar’s famous prospects of the city before and after the fire showing just how extensive the destruction was.
Later on we are introduced to the dark side of the city in a chapter entitled Hogarth’s London 1700-50 which not only includes cartoons by Hogarth but Gillray as well despite him being an artist of the 1800’s but he also deflates pomposity so belongs here. The texts in this chapter are from John Gay, the writer of the Beggar’s Opera, and Jonathan Swift amongst others which add to the expression of deprivation both in standards of living as the city grew as well as in moral standards.

By the time we reach the 1800’s properly London was the capital of an empire and whilst the poor were still oppressed, as vividly shown in the writings of Charles Dickens and Henry Mayhew, the city was becoming more and more wealthy with monuments and great squares and parks being constructed. This affluence was satirised by Lord Byron in his great poem Don Juan particularly in the section quoted in the book.
There stands the noble hostess, nor shall sink
With the three-thousandth curtsy; there the waltz,
The only dance which teaches girls to think,
Makes one in love even with its very faults.
Saloon, room, hall, o’erflow beyond their brink,
And long the latest of arrivals halts,
‘Midst royal dukes and dames condemn’d to climb,
And gain an inch of staircase at a time.

I don’t know what I expected from this book but it has provided a vivid history of the city expressed in the words of the people who were there at the time. I think it would make a great gift for any Londoner, I lived and worked there for a few years in the 1990’s so am familiar with many of the aspects covered both in the chosen paintings and texts and greatly enjoyed revisiting the city if only vicariously.




























