
This is an excellent companion volume to last week’s English Journey by J B Priestley. Whilst Priestley was covering the depths of the depression and concentrates largely on the people he encounters on his journey around England in 1933, this book is a selection of Betjeman’s writings between the late 1930’s and the mid 1970’s selected by his daughter, Candida, and ruminates mainly on landscape and architecture. The photographs that illustrate the book are also literally lighter in tone being sepia renditions rather than the harsh black and white of the Priestley volume. Earlier this year I read ‘Trains and Buttered Toast‘ which was also a collection of Betjeman’s talks and essays but there are very few duplications between the two books, in fact I can only think of one, which is the 1937 BBC talk entitled ‘Cooke of Cookesborough’ which is so well written and amusing it was certainly no hardship to read it again. Trains and Buttered Toast is mainly drawn from his BBC talks but Lycett Green has chosen far more widely so we get newspaper articles and longer sections from books he wrote, such as the 1958 ‘English Parish Churches’ and, of course, the Shell county guides several of which he edited along with artist John Piper and others with both of them contributing heavily to the text and photographs. The first book in the series was written by Betjeman and was dedicated to his beloved Cornwall and the West Country represents the first 79 of the 318 pages in this book, Priestley was a novelist and playwright and wrote beautifully but Betjeman was a poet and you can tell by his love of words.

I just want to quote a passage from his 1949 BBC talk about Port Isaac in Cornwall:
Can it really be that a town is half a mile away? I have walked between high Cornish hedges from St Endellion, once the parish church of Port-Isaac. The tower dwindles. The land winds. The slate of the hedges is overgrown with grasses, bedstraw and milky-pink convulvulus, pale-purple scabious and here and there darker valerian. From several places, standing on a hedge of looking through a gate, I can glimpse the sea. The sea is there all right, the great Atlantic, emerald green, wrinkled, glittering, sliding streaks of water, spotted dark blue here and there with reflections. It was a full tide, tamed and quiet for the moment, sliding around this inhospitable coast of North Cornwall, with white crescents of surf floating close inshore. From here on these high up fields, where blackthorn is sliced by the sea wind and leans inland, I can see all along the rocky cliffs to Tintagel Head. Behind me is even grander coast to the Rumps Point and Pentire. Cliffs and ocean are fine to watch, from these high windy fields as cloud shadows race over them. But where can there be a town? Less than half a mile and still no sight of it!
Eventually he does see his destination, but the beauty of the description of that short walk almost puts me beside him on the way to it.

Betjeman is probably best know for his enthusiasms for railways and churches and there are many lovely descriptions of both throughout the book, the chapter on London illustrates this perfectly as it consists of seven pieces, three of which are railway stations, two churches along with two others:
- Westminster Abbey – from his preface to the eponymous guide published 1972
- Paddington Station – Wheeler’s Quarterly Review, Spring 1968
- King’s Cross Station – Wheeler’s Quarterly Review, Autumn 1969
- St Pancras Station – Wheeler’s Quarterly Review, Winter 1969
- Middlesex – Daily Telegraph, 12 August 1963
- Bedford Park, Chiswick – Daily Telegraph, 22 August 1960
- St Paul’s – Daily Telegraph, 25 May 1957
The article on Middlesex bemoans the encroachment and eventual swallowing up of what was once a fertile county by the ever spreading London conurbation, whilst Bedford Park is a purpose built Victorian suburb of the city which is largely praised for it’s overall plan. But it is his descriptions of the abbey, cathedral and magnificent railway stations that Betjeman really comes into his own.

The other big difference to last week’s book is that this time we get out of England, visiting Wales, Scotland, Ireland and even the Isle of Man where he seems perfectly at home in a tiny country that always feels slightly more foreign than it’s location would suggest, enjoying the ceremony of Tynwald Day and the unspoilt countryside and of course the trains away from the crowds of holidaymakers in the capital, Douglas. It was a really fun read, even more enjoyable than ‘Trains and Buttered Toast’, the choice of longer articles than in that other book, especially the ones from Architectural Review, gave Betjeman more room to express himself and the selection by Lycett Green was impeccable letting her father’s writing shine through and including several of his poems.
The final picture in the book shows Sir John standing on the dunes at Trebethrick where he had a home and where he died in 1984. He was the only Poet Laureate to have already have been made a knight of the Realm before taking on the role, gaining the honour in 1969 before becoming Laureate in 1972.





















